Sulawesi and Halmahera

October 19th –  November 7th 2024

Sulawesi and Halmahera

October 19th –  November 7th 2024

October 19th –  November 7th 2024

Price: 57,400 SEK (excluding airfare)
Single room supplement: 4,000 SEK
+ Extra week at Lore Lindu: 23,740 SEK
Single room supplement: 1,700 SEK

Wallace´s Standardwing Bird-of-Paradise / White-headed Cuckoo-dove /  Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon / Sulawesi Malkoha / Goliath Coucal / Channel-billed Cuckoo / Moluccan Owlet-nightjar / Satanic Nightjar / Sulawesi Serpant-eagle / Sulawesi Hawk-eagle / Knobbed Hornbill / Sulawesi Hornbill  / Sulawesi & Maluccan Pitta /

Bird watching beyond all borders

Sulawesi and Halmahera – two tropical, forest-covered islands located between Borneo to the west, the Philippines to the north, New Guinea to the east, and Australia to the south, once served as a land bridge between Australia/New Guinea and Asia. When the land masses drifted apart, a phenomenon emerged that the anthropologist and natural historian Alfred Russel Wallace became aware of during his years-long expeditions around this island world in the 1850s and 1860s. To this day, we speak of the Wallace Line, an imaginary boundary between Borneo and Sulawesi to the north, which then extends down between Bali and Lombok to the south. West of this boundary are typical Asian bird families – Partridges, Trogonidae, Barbets, Bulbuls, Babblers, and Broadbills, for example. These families are absent east of this boundary. Instead, families more closely related to those found in New Guinea and Australia are found here. Despite only about 5 miles of water separating these two regions, most of these bird families and genera do not cross this boundary.

This phenomenon has resulted in these two islands having a very large proportion of endemic bird species. Not even Madagascar, with 117 endemics, comes close to the number of endemics that Wallacea can boast, which includes not only these two islands but also the Lesser Sunda Islands. It is estimated that this group of islands, which is part of the Indonesian archipelago, has over 260 endemics. Sulawesi has over 100 endemic species, and Halmahera has about 25 more. Approximately every other bird species seen on these islands is island-endemic.

The people in northern and central Sulawesi are mostly Christian, while the majority of Halmahera is Muslim. The different groups have learned to live together in harmony, and there are no conflicts. Sulawesi is a relatively ”modern” island, while much of Halmahera consists of undeveloped forest and mountain areas.

Have a look at one of our trip reports!

As previously mentioned, approximately half of the species we will see—about 150 species—will be endemic species mostly only found on these two islands; for example, the remarkable Maleo, belonging to the so-called megapodes. The Maleo buries its eggs in geothermal soil, which hatch after about 55 days, and the almost fully developed chick—complete with wing and arm feathers, for instance—digs itself out and almost immediately flies away.

We hope to see 13-14 endemic doves, almost all of which occur on these islands, as well as cuckoo-doves such as the White-headed Cuckoo-Dove, Beautiful Fruit-Doves such as the Scarlet-breasted Fruit-Dove, and large majestic Imperial Pigeons like the Silver-tipped Imperial Pigeon.

We have the chance to see almost all endemic cuckoos, such as the half-meter-long Sulawesi Malkoha with its vivid red-yellow-black colored bill, or the even larger, approximately 70 cm long, Magpie-like colored cuckoo, the Goliath Coucal. If we’re lucky, the Channel-billed Cuckoo, a large Cuckoo resembling more a Toucan or Hornbill with its enormous bill, which visits from Australia in winter, might appear.

On Halmahera, we will meet the endemic Moluccan Owlet-nightjar, resembling a cross between an owl and a frogmouth. We will see endemic nightjars, such as the Satanic Nightjar, which is only found on the mountaintops around Lore Lindu. According to legend, this nightjar flies into villages after sunset to snatch the eyes of naughty children.

Most of the raptors on the islands are island-endemic, including relatives of honey buzzards like the Sulawesi Honeybuzzard.

We hope to see Sulawesi Serpent-Eagle and Sulawesi Hawk-Eagle among eagles. There are also 7 endemic hawk species on the islands. We hope to also become acquainted with these.

Almost every island around Wallacea has its own set of Ninox and Otus owls (scops owls). Both genera have very peculiar distributions. Ninox is found almost exclusively around Wallacea and the Philippines, while most Otus owls seem scattered like pepper from a pepper mill on the small islands from West Africa through the islands of the Indian Ocean from East Africa to Asia—including several species on the mainland—to the archipelago around Indonesia, where most Otus owls are found. Then it stops. There are no Otus owls in Australia and only one species on an island north of New Guinea (Biak). There are two endemic Otus and four endemic Ninox owls on Sulawesi and Halmahera. We hope to see all of them.

Not many hornbill species have crossed the Wallace Line. There are two on Sulawesi, the Knobbed Hornbill and the Sulawesi Hornbill, and one species on Halmahera, Blyth’s Hornbill—which is also found on New Guinea. We hope to see these, sometimes in the hundreds when they gather at night roosts.

Even two woodpecker species have dared to cross the boundary, the Ashy Woodpecker and the Sulawesi Woodpecker. We hope to see both around the Tangkoko forests on Sulawesi. This genus is entirely absent from New Guinea and Australia.

Endemic kingfishers are well represented on these islands. Here we find Black-headed, Green-backed, Scaly, Sulawesi Lilac, T.browning (recently split from Common Paradise Kingfisher), Great-billed, Blue-and-white, Sombre, and Sulawesi Dwarf Kingfisher. Additionally, there are several kingfisher species that Halmahera shares with New Guinea. During the 2023 trip, we saw all endemics except one.

Cockatoos and parrots are well-represented genera on the islands with many endemics. The White Cockatoo (also called Umbrella Cockatoo) was almost disappearing completely from Halmahera, where it is an island-endemic. Poachers took almost the entire population and sold them as cage birds around the world. The Indonesian authorities confiscated as many specimens as they could lay their hands on and started a breeding program, which has been successful (some serious international breeders also helped). There are about 15 more parrot species on the islands, most of them endemics. We hope to be able to tick off most of them.

The colorful and charismatic pittas (jewel-thrushes) on these two islands cannot be forgotten. We hope to have photographic opportunities with the three endemic to the islands: the Ivory-breasted Pitta, Sulawesi Pitta, and Maluccan Pitta.

Of course, we must mention Wallace’s Standardwing Bird-of-Paradise, whose courtship display will likely be one of the highlights of the trip.

Yes, the list of endemic species we hope to see on these two paradise islands can be long. Two Honeyeater species, two Myzomela species, one Friarbird species, two Myza species, five Whistler species, ten Cuckoo-shrikes/Cicadabirds species, three Thriller species, two Fantail species, Drongos, Flycatchers, Crows, two Paradise bird species, eight White-eye species, two Leaf-warblers species, one Grasshopper Warbler species, eight Starlings & Mynas species, three Thrushes species, Flowerpeckers, Sunbirds, and Munias.

Certainly, some might be forgotten. What they all have in common is that they are only found on these two islands. The upcoming trip (2024) will also cover the southernmost part of Sulawesi. This means that we are likely to see more species (and endemics) compared to previous trips, during which we saw about 265 species. Hopefully, we will see around 275-300 species, of which roughly half are endemics.

Other Animals

These two islands are well-known for their rich populations of large and colorful endemic butterflies. Even though rarely seen, lizards and snakes have many representatives on the islands. Regarding mammals, you might spot the Black (Crested) Macaque, Bear Cuscus, and Sulawesi Tarsier (Spectral Tarsier). Between Ternate and Halmahera, dolphins and whales might appear.

For the adventurous birdwatcher. The difficulty level varies throughout the journey. Normally, there will be relatively easy walks along roads, trails, or to lookout points. We will undertake a two-hour hike in the darkness to Wallace’s Standardwing (one can also depart during daylight the day before and overnight in a simpler camp near the birds’ breeding ground). We will also embark on a 4-5 hour (including lunch and breaks) hike on a somewhat steep path up Mount Rorekatinbu at Lore Lindu. The ascent is approximately 500 meters over the 5 km walk. Several groups of 65-75-year-olds have had no issues with these hikes, but if uncertain, alternative excursions are possible. We are 3-4 people sharing the guiding duties.

Although this is not a dedicated photography trip, there will be opportunities for close-up photography of Pittas and Wallace’s Standardwing from hides, owls at daytime roosts, and fearless forest kingfishers up close. Participants from previous trips have returned home with memory cards full of beautiful pictures of many of the endemics.

We will typically stay 2-3 nights at most of the destinations during the trip, and as mentioned earlier, we will strive to accommodate individual preferences as much as possible. We have several cars at our disposal and, if needed, an available guide who can assist with photography requests. If someone wishes to stay back at our accommodation, rest, read a book, or explore the local village/town, this can often be arranged.

Normally, the day is divided into three parts. We usually wake up between 04:00 – 05:30, depending on the distance to the morning’s destination. Breakfast, sometimes served in the field, follows. Then lunch, typically taken at our lodge/hotel/resort. Afterward, there’s time for rest. Around 15:00, we usually head out into the field again. Dinner is usually served around 18:30 – 19:30, followed by a species review for those interested.

October to early November is a good time to travel before the rainy season sets in seriously, but after the arrival of the first migratory birds. We may experience occasional rain, but these usually pass quickly within an hour or so.

Sulawesi and Halmahera are tropical islands where heat and humidity can be significant during the hottest hours of the day (10:00 – 16:00), often around 30°C or more. The morning hours and higher elevations are cooler. Occasional rain showers may pass through.

At higher elevations (Tomohon and Lore Lindu), it can be cool during the morning hours, so bringing a sweater and a lightweight windbreaker might be a good idea, to be packed away in your daypack later in the day. Good hiking shoes with soles that grip well on slippery rocks, decaying leaves, etc., are advisable, as well as a sun hat and possibly a compact rain jacket that can be easily packed away. All clients will receive a packing list before departure.

The trip will focus on two areas in northern Sulawesi – lowland forest and mountain forest. Two areas in the central part of the island – mountain forest and coast. In the southern part, there are lowlands and agricultural land, as well as two areas on Halmahera – lowland forest and a slightly higher forested area. We will also visit some cultivated land and the coast. During the boat crossing between Ternate and Halmahera, you may sometimes see more seabird species such as terns and petrels.

The islands off the coast of Manado in northern Sulawesi offer some of the world’s best coral reefs where you can see whales, sharks, dolphins, sea turtles, and a variety of coral fish. There are several resorts here. For those interested, it’s possible to extend the trip independently to one of these dive resorts.

The trip is organized to give participants the opportunity to see a variety of endemic bird species found on these squid-shaped islands. Despite the relatively small total area of the islands, the distances are very large, and the road network does not invite travel at high speeds. Therefore, for time reasons, we will use domestic flights on several routes: Jakarta – Makassar, Makassar – Luwuk, Luwuk – Makassar – Palu, Palu – Makassar – Manado, Manado – Ternate, Ternate – Makassar (or Manado), and Makassar – Jakarta. These flights are included in the trip’s price. Normally, you can check in 15-20 kg of baggage. The airplanes are of the latest models, and there are usually several departures daily to the various destinations. However, there are occasional delays or cancellations, which may affect the trip somewhat. We ask participants to be understanding if this happens at any time.

We will have one or two Indonesian guides/travel organizers throughout the trip. Additionally, we will use local guides at several locations such as Tangkoko, Tomohon, Lore Lindu, and Binagara. In addition to this, we will have a number of drivers, 5 different sets – at Makassar, Luwuk, Lore Lindu, Tomohon/Tangkoko, and Halmahera (we usually have three passengers per car).

This is good to keep in mind because we usually give a little tip to drivers and local guides after each leg of the journey. So, it’s a good idea to have some local currency on hand. More detailed information about tipping will be included in the pre-trip information packet.

The quality of accommodation varies between Sulawesi and Halmahera. In Sulawesi and Ternate, we will stay a few times in cities with comfortable hotels (approximately 4-star). At Tangkoko, we will stay in well-equipped air-conditioned bungalows. In Lore Lindu, we will stay in a fairly good homestay. The accommodation in Halmahera is simpler, with a few nights in basic rooms with air conditioning and showers. At the ranger station in Binagara, we will spend nights in simple sleeping huts with two beds. There are local toilets and cold showers in the courtyard. A generator provides power for fans and charging batteries during the evening/night. It may be a good idea to bring your own sleeping bag liner and mosquito net (although there are hardly any mosquitoes here).

Breakfast consists of bread with jam, eggs, rice, and some local dishes, along with coffee (usually delicious Indonesian coffee) or tea. Sometimes breakfast is taken in the field. Lunch and dinner are served Indonesian-style, with several different dishes served in communal bowls. The dishes almost always include a fish dish, along with a beef dish, alternated with chicken, various egg dishes, and a couple of different cooked vegetable dishes. It usually works to accommodate vegans or those with gluten/lactose allergies if informed in advance – Indonesian food includes many healthy bean and vegetable dishes. Beer is available in Sulawesi but must be purchased from Halmahera’s only wholesale shop/shed since beer is not normally sold on Halmahera and Ternate. Internet works well on both islands – in rural areas, often better than in Sweden. There is a widespread network of functioning ATMs on both Sulawesi and Halmahera.

Tour Leaders: Bengt Legnell + local guides

The trip is a collaboration between Birdsafarisweden and Karlmark Resor. (Karlmark Resor holds travel insurance that also covers this trip)

When: October 19th – November 7th, 2024

Price: 57,400 SEK (excluding flight)
Single room supplement: 4,000 SEK

Price for extra days: 23,740 SEK
Single room supplement: 1,700 SEK

Note! We reserve the right to adjust the price if local costs or currency fluctuations justify it. Minor adjustments to the start and end times of the trip may sometimes be necessary.
We offer to book the flight ticket for you. It’s important to us that we all arrive on the same flight.

What’s included:
Full board in double rooms at hotels, Swedish (English speaking) tour leader, local guide throughout, all transportation, all entrance fees to nature reserves and parks.

Not included:
Flight ticket, Transfer to the airport in Sweden, insurance (Note! The European Health Insurance Card is not valid here. Participants are required, as usual, to have travel insurance against accidents and illness.), alcohol, souvenirs, and other personal expenses, tips for local guides/drivers.

Number of participants: minimum 6 – maximum 10 persons

Registration fee:
Once you have registered, we will send you an invoice for 5,000 SEK as a registration fee, securing your place on the trip.

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West of the Wallace Line, typical Asian bird genera are found. East of this boundary, these are absent. Instead, families more closely related to those found in New Guinea and Australia are found.

West of the Wallace Line, typical Asian bird genera are found. East of this boundary, these are absent. Instead, families more closely related to those found in New Guinea and Australia are found.

You’re invited to book a wildlife trip with us!

Whether you choose to travel with us to a distant land or to photograph eagles from a photo hide, you can rest assured that we:

  • We possess local knowledge

  • Sustainable nature tourism is our focus

  • We have many years of experience